There are quite a few different makes of wheel and tyre nowadays, and some require slightly different ways of mounting the wheel.
Front wheels have the ball bearings pushed into the wheel, one on each side, which is then put onto the axle. Depending on the type of wheel you will need either flanged or unflanged bearings. The easy way of finding out is, if an unflanged bearing pushes all the way through a wheel you need flanged ones! The L4 kit comes with unflanged bearings. Most wheels in use in this country use flanged bearings. Be prepared!
The L4 kit also comes with 1/4 inch screws to mount the rear wheels. These will suit older style Jaco wheels but just about nothing else, so you are likely to need to get new screws to mount the rear wheels. In the picture below the kit screws are on the left. The screw in the centre is the size I use for the GRP tyres I always use myself, and the screw on the right came with the second hand L4 I bought that had wheels not normally available in the UK, so as you can see there is plenty of variety!
With rear wheels there is also a difference in the offset between the inside of the hub and inside of the wheel. With the old style Jaco wheels there is no offset whatsoever and these will go onto an L4 with no modification. Most other wheels have an offset of around 2mm, maybe slightly more, so the wheel will have to be spaced outwards. There are two ways of doing this.
The first, as seen below, is to have a spacer between the wheel and hub. The one shown in the picture is made by Fibre-Lyte, and is approx. 2.5mm thick.
The other way of spacing the wheels out is to add shims until the wheels are spaced correctly, as seen in the picture below.
Remember you will have to add shims on both sides. You should be aiming for a width of just under 172mm (to stay legal) which is 86mm either side of the centre line of the car. Make sure it is exactly the same spacing either side, which is not always the same number of shims.
