T-Bar Building and Mounting

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Two different T-bars come with the kit. They are shown in the picture below.

On the left is the .063 inch (thin) T-bar, and on the right is the .075 inch (thick) one. The manual shows the thick one being fitted, but fit the thin one instead as this is more suitable for UK tracks. The difference in shape between them is more obvious in the picture below. 

It is a good idea to polish the pivot balls with brasso (cleaning it off afterwards!) before fitting them as it gives a smotther action.

The pivot balls should fit in the pivot sockets with no slop but still move easily. To help this sand the bottom of the socket on a perfectly flat surface with fine wet and dry until the round marks on them have disappeared. The pictures below show the bottom of the socket before, during and after sanding.

Then when screwing the assembly together onto the T-bar, tighten all 4 screws up evenly (not too tight or you will strip the thread!) and then slacken each off by about 1/8th turn. The pivot ball should then move freely but not be able to move up and down in the socket.

When fitting the T-bar do not fit the centre spacer and screw, as shown in the picture below. This gives the T-bar more flex, and also gives a little more space for motor adjustment. The downside to this is it is slightly more likely to break in an accident.

The thing that most beginners forget is that T-bars need replacing quite frequently. When they are showing distinct white stress marks they should be replaced immediately. Unfortunately this is quite easily caused by crashing so beginners can get through quite a lot more T-bars than more experienced drivers, but a good T-bar is essential to the handling of the car. They also go soft over time so even if they do not show stress marks they should be replaced periodically. 

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