The turnbuckles should be assembled just as in the manual. Make sure you get them the same way round or adjusting the steering can be very confusing!
Onto the servo saver now. I use titanium ball studs again to save weight. These thread straight into the servo saver. On the Cyclone 12 it was advised to use spacers on these to move them forwards 2.5-3mm to increase the ackerman. It is not possible to do this as much on the 12x due to the increased height of the lower arms.
I have found that it is just about possible to space them forwards 1.5mm without overly restricting the steering with large front tyres (44-45mm) but don’t try to space them forwards any more than this or the steering will bind.
Onto mounting the servo now. I find the Futaba S9650 the best fit in the car. Most other servos are just a touch too deep to fit without shaving a bit off the roll mast mount. I sand the bottoms of the servo mounts with 600 grade wet and dry to ensure they are flat, at the same time making sure they are both straight and at the same angle as each other. This ensures the chassis isn’t tweaked when the servo is fitted. The screws fit into the servo very tightly so I tap the holes to about half the length of the screw with a 3mm tap to make assembly easier.
When mounting the servo it is essential that you ensure the servo shaft is absolutely in the centre of the chassis. Any variation at all from one side to the other will affect the steering.
Some people like to shorten their servo wires to neaten the wiring but I find that a bit of creative placement can work just as well as seen in the pictures below.