Rear Brace and Damper Plates

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This one of the few places where I have to make a small modification to use the screws I like. There is a lip on the inside of the purple screws that stop them going fully into the hole where the damper post is attached as can be seen (badly, sorry) in the picture below.

I run a sharp knife around the edge of the hole to create a small bevel so the screw fits properly.

Then, to ensure the damper post is not going to come loose I threadlock the screw.

I attach the damper post and tighten as well as I can. Fortunately it is something that rarely needs to be undone as it is practically impossible after doing this, but it stops it from coming loose.

After this I attach the cross brace to the car as in the manual. I then attach the rear body posts. I use screws 2mm longer than shown in the manual to attach the body posts so they are a little less likely to come loose.

Now for the damper plates. The lower one needs to be cut as it is very low and would hit the motor when the pod flexes otherwise. One before cutting is below.

I cut with a pair of scissors as seen in the picture below. Using scissors stops a sharp edge from forming when it is cut so it is less likely to catch on the upper pod plate. I also trim a little off the rearmost spline as can be seen below.

The drivers in the UK tend to raise the rear of the shock on the car by 3mm. This gives more off power steering. The parts to do this can be seen below. It is necessary to use a 13mm long ball stud in order to do this rather than the kit length of 10.3mm. I use a titanium ball stud here again.

Here we can see the whole assembly built up with the raised ball cup.

 

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