Building up the T bar is pretty straightforward. First, I tap through the holes with a 3mm tap where it is mounted to the rear pod. This isn't strictly necessary but ensures that it isn't stressed more than necessary when attached to the pod.
Next, I take the flat T bar pivot sockets and sand them until the small plastic circles have gone using 600 grade wet and dry. Be careful to have the wet and dry on a completely flat surface when you are doing this. The picture below shows a pivot socket before sanding.
Keep sanding lightly using circular movements to make sure it is done evenly.
Below is a pivot socket that is almost done, just a bit of circle showing.
When finished it looks like the one below.
Check frequently to make sure you don't go too far. This is done to make sure the pivot sockets can hold the pivot ball tightly enough so it has no up and down movement.
When screwing them together tighten all 4 screws completely but don't over tighten or the plastic will strip. The pivot ball almost certainly won't move at this point. Then loosen all 4 screws equally one eighth of a turn at a time until the pivot ball moves easily but with no slop. Do this with both front and rear pivots. Note that the optional front pivot with tweak screws is being used. I do this simply because I prefer being able to adjust the tweak on the car.
There's nothing wrong with the kit screws but I use 2mm alloy screws for the pivot sockets which are lighter and also have an allen head, and I use 5mm long set screws for the tweak rather than the kit 10mm ones. All screws from www.fastener-express.com again. A finished T bar can be seen below ready to fit on the car.