RC Dynamics Voltage Booster from Mark Jordan
I’ve been trying 1S LiPo out at club meetings recently, and I was loaned a TQ voltage booster to try out. Initially this seemed OK, but I then realised that my steering servo had started hunting around centre and my transponder also started missing laps. After much swapping of components I decided that the TQ booster was the most likely culprit. From more investigation I have found that the JR servo I have been using draws more current than most others so this may be the reason the TQ can’t handle it.
Because of this I decided to try out the RC Dynamics voltage booster designed and built by Mark Jordan. After an email or two and a quick Paypal visit I had one in my hands, which was very good considering the Christmas post.
You don’t get much in the packet, not that you need any more! The booster is supplied along with an RC Dynamics sticker and that’s it. No instructions, though it is one of those things where if you need instructions you probably shouldn’t be buying it!
Onto the booster itself. There is a built in switch, which is a great idea and makes for a much tidier installation.
A piece of polycarbonate is also attached to the bottom of the booster to create a flat area for the double sided tape to adhere to, making it easy to fit onto the car.
The wires used are very stiff, which I thought may be a problem until I installed the booster. It is actually very easy to bend the wires into the required shape and position and they stay there! They are very good quality too.
There is no 1S LiPo cutoff device in this booster. This should never be a problem for me though as I’ve never come anywhere near dumping with a 10.5 motor, so it should be fine for 13.5 and 17.5 drivers too. If I want a 1S cutoff my Tekin ESC will do it for me anyway. It also means that it is specialising in the one job of boosting the voltage so in theory there can be fewer compromises in its design.
Onto installation now. All that is required is to double sided tape the booster to the chassis in a position where it is possible to reach the switch. Then the power wires need soldering to the battery connections on the ESC. Make sure the wire marked with red heatshrink is soldered to the positive connection, and the other on the negative connection. Then plug it into your receiver and that’s it! Here it is installed in the car.
A green LED should light up when booster is turned on. The first thing I noticed was that my servo was no longer hunting around centre, which was a very good sign. Out onto the track then, and no more missed laps on the transponder. Servo speed was good and no interference either. It just worked, which is exactly what it should do.
As a result I can thoroughly recommend one of these to anyone and Mark is working on making them more generally available. More news on this soon.
|Quiescent (No load) Current||3mA|
|Maximum PCB Size||15x20mm|
|Maximum Size including heatshrink||17x23mm|
|Input Wire *||130mm 22AWG Aircraft Spec|
|Output Wire *||90mm 26AWG Aircraft Spec|
* Other wiring configurations are available.